An Excerpt from the Safar-nama of Nasir Khusraw:
“Afterwards I went to Shurghan and spent the night in a village in Faryab. From there I went via Samangan and Talaqan to Marw Rud and thence to Marw. Taking leave from my job, I announced that I was setting out for the pilgrimage to Mecca. I settled what debts I had and renounced everything worldly, except for a few necessities.”
Source: Thackston, W. Wheeler McIntosh, ed. trans., Nasir-i Khusraw’s Book of Travels (Costa Mesa, CA: Mazda Publishers, 2010), 2.
Situated on the eastern edge of a large fertile oasis watered by the Murghab River, Marw was historically an important departure point for travel across the (180 km) desert to Amul, a destination on the 'Silk Road' trade route. Today, modern Marw is known as Mary, an administrative centre located 30 km west of Old Marw. The ruins of Old Marw are located near the small town of Bairam Ali, in present-day Afghanistan.
The ruins of Marw comprise of five walled cities dating from 6th BCE to 18th CE century: Erk Kala, Gyaur Kala, Sultan Kala, Abdullah Khan Kala and Bairam Ali Khan Kala. The development of these cities is unusual in Western Asia in terms of the grouping into three settlements corresponding to three period; Ancient, Medieval and post-Medieval.
Instead of rebuilding upon the same site in successive layers, each city was abandoned for a new site nearby. The Gyaur Kala, however, was occupied for over a thousand years under the consecutive reigns of the Parthians, Sassanians and Umayyads, constituting the longest lasting of the Marw settlements.
From Abbasids to Seljuks: The Abbasid general Abu Muslim (d. 137 AH / 755 CE) established the dynastic power in Marw in 130 AH / 748 CE and relocated government administration and major bazaars from the ancient city to a suburb. In 3rd AH / 9th CE century, Marw prospered at this site under the Abbasids and Tahirids, but went through a period of decline when the political power moved to Nishapur and Bukhara. The Seljuks arrived Marw in 5th AH / 11th CE century. They revived the city and established it as their eastern capital. They built walls to forify the city and to enclose the settlement, possibly during the reign of Sultan Malikshah (r. 465-485 AH / 1072-92 CE). Sultan Sanjar (r. 512-552 AH / 1118-57 CE) is credited with construction of a fortified citadel, the Shahriyar Ark, in the northeast corner, and the two walled suburbs that extend the city to the north and south.
Mongols and Post-Medieval Era: In three consecutive invasions during 617–618 AH / 1221-1222 CE the Mongols sacked the medieval city of Marw, the ruins now known as Sultan Kala. The city remained occupied, but in an impoverished state until the Timurids integrated the area into their empire in the late-9th AH / 14th CE century.
The Timurid ruler Shahrukh (779-850 AH / 1405-47 CE) considered locating his capital to Marw and founded a new settlement, now known as the Abdullah Khan Kala, one kilometre south of Sultan Kala. He instituted a major building program, rebuilt the irrigation system and possibly constructed the dam. However, construction came to a halt when Shahrukh relocated to Samarkand. Marw did not develop again until the era of the Shaybanids (905-1006 AH / 1500–98 CE) under whom the fortification walls were erected.
In the post-medieval period, Marw remained a provincial centre, a small town of less than one square kilometre boasting, however, one of the strongest fortresses of the time. A rectangular extension known as Bairam Ali Khan Kala was constructed to the west of Abdullah Khan Kala in the 18th century. These two sites were probably in use until the early 19th century, but later dismantled to provide bricks for new construction.
Citation:
Merv, Turkmenistan: Background and further information
http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/projects/merv,_turkmenistan/merv,_turkmenistan.aspx[accessed July 2013]
Daftary, Farhad, A Short History of the Ismailis (Princeton, NJ: M. Wiener, 1998).
Herrmann, Georgina, Monuments of Merv: Traditional Buildings of the Karakum (London: The Society of Antiquaries of London: 1999).
Hunsberger, Alice C. Nasir Khusraw, the Ruby of Badakhshan (London: I. B. Tauris, 2000).
Nikitin, A. B. and Zeymal, YE. V., 'Merv', vol. 21 of The Grove Dictionary of Art (Oxford: Oxford University Press), 167.
Ancient Merv Project
http://archive.cyark.org/ancient-merv-intro [accessed September 2013]
Explorations in Marw by University College London
http://www.ucl.ac.uk/merv [accessed July 2013]
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